Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
